Layline

[<Blur>]

Sorry I'm quite new to windsurfing and sailing. I read the America cup stuff and they keep mentioning "layline" - what is that? Can anybody explain?

[MennoB]

Consider going upwind in racing.
Layline is the point from where, when you tack, you will be able to reach the upper buoy in 1 leg (without having to tack again).

Sailing past the layline is called "overstanding".
Whe you do this, you end up too far upwind, and sail more meters than is necessary. That's slow ;(

But tacking too soon, and thus having to tack more often than necessary, obviously is slow too.

There's a discussion about determination of layline and when to tack on either Gaastra or Starboard forum (or even on both? dunno)

[<ozymandius>]

I have recently taken up sailing on a formula, having been on a long board for many years.  I find that picking the correct layline for a formula is very tricky because the pointing ability of a formula is so dependent on the wind speed. I am planing upwind to the windward mark and then I tack when I think I can fetch the mark.  Initially it looks like I can make it but then the wind starts to drop and I can no longer stay on the chosen layline.  This does not happen on a long board.  Does anyone else have the same experience?

[thye]

quote:Originally posted by <ozymandius>:

I find that picking the correct layline for a formula is very tricky because the pointing ability of a formula is so dependent on the wind speed. I am planing upwind to the windward mark and then I tack when I think I can fetch the mark.  Initially it looks like I can make it but then the wind starts to drop and I can no longer stay on the chosen layline.  This does not happen on a long board.  Does anyone else have the same experience?

It's has something to do with "Velocity Make Good", as your board increases speed you’ll find that it can point higher then 45-degree to the wind and as the speed reduces you’ll need to bear off to maintain the speed and apparent wind.
 
It’s a skill and knowledge of knowing how much speed your board with the given sail / fin size with relation to the wind velocity to maintain on a planning upwind beat
 
For an example draw a “Vertical line” for height and “Horizontal line” for speed. The ideal would be 45-degree.

But in most case when we concentrate too much on height we tent to reduce the forward movement and increase the sideway drag. It may seem to be pointing higher but in actual fate over a distance you'll be point closer and closer to the wind

Likewise if we concentrate too much on maintaining speed and velocity we’ll forget or refuse to point and end up sailing a longer then required distance to the mark.

The trick is never sail a straight line, point when there is suffusion speed and to bear off to maintain velocity. "Velocity Make Good"

Not no mention other areas to consider like wind-shift, header or lift (veer or back), current (again, opposite or across the wind), landmass, geography, wind shadow and more. All of which would assist you in your dicision to over or under lay the mark.

[MennoB]

quote:Originally posted by <ozymandius>:
I find that picking the correct layline for a formula is very tricky because the pointing ability of a formula is so dependent on the wind speed.....This does not happen on a long board.  Does anyone else have the same experience?

Yes.
Never sailed a longboard, but I imagine they keep on trucking upwind even when the wind is less strong. I guess with those long beasts much of the lateral resistance comes from the rail.
A formula relies on speed to generate lift through the fin. No speed, no lift, no angle.

[sukhdev]

Dennis, if the wind drops to less than planing then all bets are off anyway..but.. most often the problem is gear thats too small. For example, at your weight, your big sail would be a 9.8 or 10.4, this in our conditions would carry from 7 to say 12 knots. Then a 9.3 or 9.0 to high teens and a 7.x or 8.0 size above that. Same for boards, the 1 metre hulls with good 70cm fins make a massive difference, your 135 is relatively small by current standards. The gear you have currently would work best in 12 to 18/20 knots.

In formula, putting the hammer down and cranking as far as you can works best; shifts are often too short and small to make many tacks, plus tacking costs planing distance and time.